2-3. fall 2016
2-3. fall 2016
Bibian Blue, “Spellbound”, fall 2011
Berta, fall 2019
Macedonian traditional wedding dresses
Fashions by Askasu (click to enlarge)
The history and origin of the stereotypical witch hat: it comes from anti-Quaker sentiment in England/America in the 17th-18th centuries! (With a brief foray into the history of the pointed wizard hat: it comes from medieval antisemitism.)
Fashions by Armstreet
Etruscan, 500-480 BCE, made in Etruria
Alexander McQueen, pre-fall 2020
Mahal-e-Mubarak: Wife of H.E.H. The Nizam VII, circa. 1915.
Germania auf der Wacht am Rhein by Lorenz Clasen, 1860
7. 1885-1892 by Charles Frederick Worth
French fashions, 1779
1. Robe de cour
2. Dress a la Creole, worn by French ladies in America
3. Regional costume of Caux, Normandy
Photos of garment breakdowns below the cut:
Zhang Jingjing, spring 2013 haute couture
Winter coat by Grimilde Malatesta
The Ukrainian wreath (Ukrainian: вінок, vinók) is a type of wreath which, in traditional Ukrainian culture, is worn by girls and young unmarried women. The wreath may be part of a tradition dating back to the old East Slavic customs that predate the Christianization of Rus. The flower wreath remains a part of the Ukrainian national attire, and is worn on festive occasions and on holy days and since the 2014 Ukrainian revolution increasingly in daily life.
On the day of Ivan Kupala, young women placed their wreaths in the water with a lighted candle, foretelling their romantic future by how the wreath flowed down the river or lake. From the wreath’s direction, the girl could tell whom she would marry: if the wreath stayed in one spot and did not float down the water, she would not marry; if it went under, she would die; if the candle went out, misfortune would follow. The young men would dive into the water, trying to retrieve the vinok of the girl each loved. One of the ritual Kupala songs says, “Who will catch the wreath will catch the girl, who will get the wreath will become mine." It dates back to pre-Christian times when it was thought that the headdress would protect girls from evil spirits. The ceremonial, religious value diminished, and was later replaced as a national character of girlhood: to lose a wreath in folk songs and traditions means for a maiden to transition into womanhood.
Like most Ukrainian folk dress, the vinok had significant symbolic value and only specific flowers were used. It was traditionally worn by girls who were eligible for marriage. The wreath’s name, vinok, is related to the Ukrainian word for a wedding ceremony vinchannya.
The flowers used to make the wreath were generally fresh, paper or waxen and were attached onto a band of stiff paper backing covered with a ribbon.
The wreath varied in many of the regions of Ukraine; young women throughout the country wore various headdresses of yarn, ribbon, coins, feathers and grasses, but these all had the same symbolic meaning. In parts of central and eastern Ukraine the flowers were raised in the center front. Usually multicolored, embroidered ribbons were attached to the back.
During the Ukrainian wedding ceremony, the vinok was replaced by the ochipok, a cap that she would wear for the rest of her life.
Traditional Bavarian clothing by Lucia Artemisia
Embroidered velvet coat, Marshall and Snelgrove, England, 1895-1900