jo n hazel
jo n hazel
She's so charming
0.1 Banana Chocolate Enchi DG het. Hypo _ cb20,
photo from the last year, after the first shed
숨겨도 다 보인단다😜 🐊 정확한 정보, 정직한 가격 수입, 분양, 용품, 먹이 🐍 ▷홈페이지:marinereptile.com ▷네이버블로그 : https://blog.naver.com/marinereptile ▷인스타그램 : https://www.instagram.com/marine_reptile/ ▷페이스북 : https://www.facebook.com/marinereptile ▷유투브 : 이용래의 마린TV https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjjj7cWg4H4JHZQu49Nwy-A ▷카페 : https://cafe.naver.com/bleuchatte ▷주소:경남 김해시 김해대로 2491번길 17 지하1층 ▷영업시간:11:00~19:00 매주 목요일 휴무 ▷매장전화:055-326-1066 ▷매장휴대폰:010-7551-1066 ▷카카오톡:marinereptile ▷오픈카카오:마린렙타일 🐊🐍🐢🦎🐸🐠🐟🦐🦂🐁 #마린렙타일 #파충류샵 #파충류가게 #경남 #김해 #부산 #김해파충류 #파충류 #reptile #양서류 #amphibian #절지류 #arthropod #파충류용품 #악어 #caiman #뱀 #snake #거북 #tortoise #turtle #도마뱀 #lizard #볼파이톤 #ballpython #egg #clutch (마린렙타일에서) https://www.instagram.com/p/CO9Twt3M2ti/?igshid=12lunof9h2nho
She hates monthly weigh day, but it's important to track for health purposes!
Hybrid Furry Character
For Commission Info Click Here
Conybeare Plesiosaurus Reconstruction
1824 On the Discovery of an almost perfect Skeleton of the Plesiosaurus" Transactions of the Geological Society, Second Series, Volume 1, page 381-390. This large folio plate is the first scientific reconstruction of any prehistoric reptile and appeared in that volume as "Restoration of the Plesiosaurus dolichoderius and Ichthyosaurus communis". Plate LXIX drawn by Conybeare, lithograph by Scharfe, print by Hullimandel."
Diadophis punctatus regalis a.k.a. regal ringneck snake
LOOK AT THIS 😭🥺
This little nugget has now blessed your day ✨
Feeling the Sun
Western Painted Turtle
© 2021, James Blatter
The Fed Up Caresheet: Tenebrio Molitor, the Mealworm Beetle.
I'm tired of seeing people asking the same questions over and over about care, breeding and use of these guys in bioactive enclosures, so I've come up with my own care sheet for them. I've bred and sold these guys for years and tried just about everything anyone has ever suggested, so here's what's worked best for me.
Use a flat container. The more space they have to get away from each other the better. Shoeboxes work well for up to 200. Make sure there is a ton of ventilation. I cut holes in the top and use screen or just leave em open, since the beetles can't climb smooth surfaces. They need very dry conditions, detailed later.
Decide what meal to use. There's a lot of options here, but the finer the better. I find that mixing meals works far better at producing healthy, fast growing mealworms than using just one. I use a blend, in order of greatest to least quantity, of cornmeal, ground up oatmeal, and finely ground bran cereal like grapenuts or bran flakes. You can also use unbleached oat flour, but you MUST follow the caveat below:
Disinfect your substrate. The most important thing you can do is to bake your meal/grain products first, at 200 F for at least 20 minutes. I usually bake it for two hours just to be safe. This kills mold spores and mite, weevil and flour beetle eggs that will ruin your brood and possibly kill off your colony. I can not tell you the number of times I had to give up on a breeding colony because of mold or mite infestations. The FDA allows a certain percentage of these things in human foodstuffs, so there is no way to get away from them.
Keep a hydrometer in the container and monitor the humidity- KEEP THEM DRY. These beetles are native to the dry, sandy parts of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, though they've become pests all over the world. They thrive at humidity levels between 20%-50% and do not do well at humidity levels above 65%. T. Molitor has the ability to absorb water from the air, and are experts at getting water from their food. Signs the humidity is too high include dead, dark and squishy worms, bad molts and missing wing converts in adults, and pupae that turn brown and melty.
Food - what they like, what is good for them, and what is not.
There is this strange myth out there that because they can get water from the air, and eat what they live in, that you never have to feed these guys. But that couldn't be more false.
Remember, don't give them more food than they can eat in 48 hours, and remove any and all uneaten food after that, no matter if it's been boiled or blanched.
Food they like/is good for them:
Mushrooms. They love them, especially the beetles. Any mushroom you can eat, they can eat. (Don't pick wild mushrooms. Just don't.)
Blanched or boiled dark green veggies. Mealworms and the beetles have very small mouths and like soft, moist food. Blanching is merely dipping your greens in boiling or near boiling water (140F plus) for 20-30 seconds to kill off bacteria and fungi, which means you arent introducing those things to your grain meal, which means you shouldnt have as many problems with mold. Veggies that fall into this category include kale, spinach (a fan favorite of mine), broccoli, collards, cacti, cabbage and Kolrhabi. Basically all those things your reptile isn't supposed to eat. They love it and they neutralize the oxalic acid in them, so it's a fantastic thing to gut load them with.
Potatoes. This one is iffy for them in my experience. They like sweet potato in particular and regular potato is ok for them, and it's often used as a staple for them. However they are prone to going moldy very fast if not observed carefully. Remember, tiny mouths, so the thinner the slices the better.
Squash. OMG they can not get enough of it. Any kind of squash, from zucchini to pumpkin. Rich in sugars, vitamin A, and tons of trace minerals, its also an excellent gut load. Blanching is up to you on this one, but keep quantities small since the tough fibers take a while for tiny jaws to get through. Exception for cooked squash, which they love, but should only be a treat
Moving away from the veggies, they do enjoy a little protein now and then, so small bits of cooked meat like fish and chicken are appreciated. Alternatively they can be fed fish food, dog food, or even just a commercial reptile diet (like you would use for your own) containing at least 10% protein. I would use a separate dish or bit if paper towel to feed these so as not to contaminate the substrate.
Food they love which is not good for them/to be used as treats:
Fruit. They love the stuff, but it's not always the best thing to feed them since most fruit ferments or molds very quickly in their carb-rich environment. Super sugary fruits are also poor in trace nutrients and aren't the best for gut loading. Some fruit is actively harmful for them, too, like pommegranite, pineapple, gooseberry and cranberry.
Flowers. Again, they like to eat them but they're really not nutritious.
Food they dont like, won't eat and which is not good for them:
Citrus. They hate the stuff and it's toxic to them. Nonetheless they will eat it if nothing else is present.
Cranberries, gooseberries, wine grapes, pommegranite and pineapple: these all are toxic to T. Molitor and any other scrarab beetle. The antioxidants destroy the bacteria in their gut, so the theory goes (except pineapple, which is toxic to insects of all types due to enzymes that break down protein in their mouths and guts) rendering them weak and feeble from malnutrition. Thankfully they usually dont like these anyway.
Anything with high amounts of iodine such as shellfish and seaweed. Commercial diets made with these things are usually fine if not fed in excess, but too much will cause fatal poisoning or render the adults sterile.
1. Can I use T. Molitor in my bioactive setup?
A: yes, and no. It depends on the animal. In general these guys need much drier conditions than a fully bioactive setup calls for. Unlike their cousin, Zophobas Morio (common superworm) however, they are strict herbivores/detritivores and only like soft, dead things, so they won't eat your pet alive. They are also less noxious, so no worries if your pet eats one on occasion. They work best in semi arid to arid setups like those for bearded dragons, leopard geckos, savannah and ackie monitors, and knob tailed geckos.
2. Can I house T. Molitor and Z. Morio together?
A: Short answer, no. Long answer, yes, with sacrifices. Adult beetles get along fine, since they have hard exoskeletons and can't really hurt each other. However the hungry and powerful jaws of Morio beetles and their larva will make short work of a Mealworm or freshly molted pupa. Also, their humidity requirements are different, and so it's difficult to keep them together comfortably. One's extreme high is the other's extreme low, so to keep them together without causing suffering to either one is a very fine edge that's nearly impossible to balance on forever.
3. Why do my beetles keep coming out with deformed wings and bodies?
A: usually this is a humidity issue. When humidity is too high, the elatrae (wing covers) can't harden properly. It can also be caused by overcrowding. These beetles like each other's company, but males are very aggressive and pushy with both each other and females and can really beat up a freshly molted adult if they feel there's too much competition for space. which leads to the third, completely random cause, which is having too many males. Nearly all scarab beetle males are aggressive competitors, with perhaps the exception of Carrion and buffalo beetles, so too many males can cause stress on the whole colony. The good news is that these beetles are super hardy and don't really seem affected by their deformations. Malnutrition is a factor of consideration as well. Too little protein makes their elatrea weak and brittle.
4. Do my beetles ever molt once they become adults?
A: No. In fact one of the defining characteristics of beetles as an order of insects is that they never molt once they leave their larval stage. It takes more resources to rebuild their tough exoskeleton than they could eat in their brief lifetimes.
5. How long will the adults live for?
A: T. Molitor is a relatively long lived beetle as an adult, living up to a year and a half, though males often live longer than females. They are fertile right out of the pupae and can reproduce until the day they die.
6. Do I need to worry about allergies?
A: unless you are allergic to grains, then generally no. Allergies to the frass (poop) are very rare given that they are very hard and often mixed into the bedding. That said I have anecdotally heard of one person having a skin allergy to the frass, and the oil the beetles secrete in self defense can be irritating to sensitive skin, so I dont advise handling them.
If you have any questions or want to add something, PM me or comment below.
I attempted to clean my roommate’s tank since it’s raining outside and I can’t pull weeds from my mom’s garden.